The Big Kitchen and Judy Forman are both one of a kind, and this in itself makes the Big Kitchen worth the visit, even if you just sit for a cup of coffee.

But you just can’t sit; Judy “The Beauty on Duty” is more likely than not to engage you in conversation about her experienced and worldly past, or yours. Vietnam in the pre-war 60’s, The Philippines as a beauty queen, social work with gangs in Detroit, California State Legislature 2005 Woman of the Year for the 76th Assembly District, induction into the Women’s all of Fame, all of that is Judy, and more; trés bien, her refrain. I believe that is French for “it’s all good.”

The food is excellent. The menu is classic diner meets progressive world all at the same time. Breakfast and Lunch only. But this place is no longer really about the food alone. It is the cornerstone of a strong community where Judy, in words volunteered up by Stephen Rey, himself voted Best Blues Guitarist in San Diego four years in a row, says “ She is...